Below are the major steps for how I cleaned and restored this Underwood Model 5.

Enjoy the image galleries and compare the before and after image at the end!

Preparation & Disassembly

To properly chemically clean an Underwood 5 typewriter, all exterior panels must be removed along with all rubber, plastic, wood, keyrings and letters, and soundproofing material. You will notice, in my picture story, that I have removed the key rings, glass key tops, and paper letters.

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Tip: If you do not have access to key ring removal pliers, do not pry them off. Take it from the voice of experience, you will damage or ruin the key letters, break more than your share of the glass covers, not to mention bending the key levers.

Air Cleaning

Once the parts have been removed, the machine needs to be properly air cleaned. This will minimize the excess dirt and foreign particles from contaminating the cleaning solutions so they can be reused multiple times before they need to be replaced/refreshed.

Solvent Cleaning

Once air cleaned, I place the machine inside of a high-sided cleaning tank where it can be sprayed with degreasing solution. At this time it is necessary to use a brush to aid in loosening and removing stubborn old hardened lubricants and sludge that has become one with dirt, paper fibre, ribbon lint, coffee, cookies, and eraser particles.

Rinse

Now that the machine is free of its collection of hard stuff, it is time to rinse off all of the cleaning solution. This is also done in the same high-sided sink that has a water spray nozzle.

I first use hot water as it helps soften any remaining sticky or gummy sludge that was missed by the degreasing solution, and to remove the degreasing solution itself.

The typewriter is now clean and hot, and the machine needs to be rinsed off with cold water to properly cool it off.

Dry

The typewriter is now dripping wet so it will need to drain for a few minutes – but only until the bulk of the water has run off. Rust can form if not dried quickly. The machine now needs to be power dried with compressed air, not just left out in the breeze all day. It is especially important to remove all of the moisture from the springs, being careful not to get the air nozzle very close to small springs. I also dry screw holes and the segment where the typebars pivot.

You will never get all of the moisture off, so I found it best to place the machine in front of a variable speed fan to force drying air into hard to reach and tight areas. I usually leave the fan on for a half hour while I clean earlier removed parts. The machine should be 99% dry now.

Polish and Buff

For all of the plated parts that might have rust/corrosion on them, it will be necessary to use a wire wheel (fine wire) to properly remove it. Once the plating has been cleaned, a fabric buffing wheel, with polishing rouge on it, can be used to return the plating to a nice bright shine or luster. The key rings are polished by threading them through with a wooden dowel rod to hold them against the wire wheel and then the fabric wheel.

Reassembly

For new key letters, should your old ones be damaged, you can purchase nice clean sets on the net. Just make sure that the ones you purchase match the keys of your typewriter. It will save a lot of time if you do. When you get the sheet, copy it so you have a spare should you damage any during installation. The letters will need to be cut, or punched out of the key letter sheet. You can purchase a half-inch leather punch from a leather supply store and can cut out the letters yourself with a little practice.

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